Space for Chimay

Étangs Gourmands means Food Loving Pond

Day #7 – Dinant – Givet, France – Mariembourg, Belgium – Chimay
Number of Miles Cycled Today – 45.5
Number of Total Miles Cycled – 155.7
Number of Miles Traveled – 5,014.9

Subsequently our time in the Namur province was brief, and less than 18 hours later, our peloton of novice bike riders hit the pavement towards the Hainaut province town of Mariembourg on our way to Chimay, last big day of cycling. The following day, half of the group would return to Brussels and the other half would train it to the northern coast town of Bruges, but this day had 45 miles that waited to be cycled by our group in Belgium. The stop in Mariembourg would include a stop at a life-size model of a Thomas the Trainesque train depot along with the Brasserie des Fagnes. Then we would finish the day rolling up to the best of Chimay.

Smooth Road out of Dinant

As we set off west from Dinant, the finely paved road allowed our orange mountain bikes to maintain consistent speeds close to an impressive sixteen miles per hour, the same speed that Tour de France cyclists conduct interviews after a stage ride. Our route directed the group for a moment to Givet, France. That would make it four countries over the week. Ultimately juvenile competitiveness led Jeremy and I to break from the pack like Tour de France sprinters. Over the remaining distance to Mariembourg, Jeremy and I pushed ourselves on the flat terrain, risking our lives crossing rural intersections where trail and dirt farm roads crossed. These two middle-aged men topped twenty miles per hour at a few points on a few long flat stretches. This built time and distance on our compadres, for no clear reason other than bragging rights.

In Mariembourg, a solid ten minutes before the others, Jeremy and I, both fathers of four adorable children, are quite familiar watching Thomas the Train. Undoubtedly over the last decade, we have watched many episodes many times over and we found ourselves at Chemin de Fer à Vapeur des 3 Vallées, a life-size Thomas the Train train depot station. Since it’s considered a tourist site and we were voyageurs on a journey, we took some photos, climbed on the trains like our kids, and then found the museum and café closed in the early afternoon, prime time to halt operations. My understanding is that tourists prefer to visit closer to 5 a.m. or midnight. We’d soon find the majority of Mariembourg residents.

Can Anyone say Thomas the Train?

No one arrived to the train station while we climbed on the trains, we set off to our prearranged meeting spot, Brasserie des Fagnes. This brewery on the edge of Mariembourg was designed for all residents. A large windmill in the front lawn helped find it abounding with bicycle parking spots. The outside seating arrangements were full of families. Behind the wooden tables was a playground full of Belgian tykes playing. Their parents drank. Inside the restaurant / brewery was an expansive area. One area was dedicated to the actual brewery, more seating for the less adventurous, sun fearing crowd, and a small museum awash with the history and greatness of Fagnes beers.

Cherry Beer at Brasserie des Fagnes

Later, the Serge Pauwels of our group rolled in, saddled up to the table and joined us carboloading with various Fagnes beer and Belgian fries for the remaining 17 miles to Chimay. As we sat sharing stories of dodging killer butterflies, Frédéric Adant, the tall, well dressed four generation owner of Brasserie des Fagnes, approached the table to talk to us. He asked us where we’d visited and where we were headed. Once again, he seemed to express genuine interest in our group trip. At the end of the conversation, Pepper solicited a restaurant recommendation for Chimay. Frédéric suggested les Étangs Gourmands (literal translation – food loving pond).

Seventeen miles later, we approached Chimay Espace, the duel retail space dedicated to selling L’Abbaye de Scourmont beer and lodging for the night. In the Poteaupré Inn, we purchased several bottles of Chimay beer, and who knew they made cheese too, some Chimay cheese. It was at this moment I had to admit that Chimay was no longer my favorite Belgian beer (similar experience when I found out in Dublin I don’t really like in Guinness). It was now Pissenlit from the Fantôme brewery in Soy. Yet just like my ever-changing and expanding waistline in this current day and age, my beer palette will undoubtedly change in the next five years when we complete the next Belgium cycling tour. So that favorite Belgian beer could well change.

First Chimay in the Motherland

Thankfully everyone showered in our Auberge de Poteaupré rooms before driving two miles to the food loving pond at Étangs Gourmands, the restaurant Frédéric suggested earlier in the day in Mariembourg. The food at the self-proclaimed “cabarestaurant” was remarkable and filling. But what the heck is a “cabarestaurant” supposed to be? I didn’t see anyone dancing prancing around like it was a cabaret. Maybe it was the fact this establishment had a cabin overlooking the lake and trying to be clever, combined the two words.

Two rambunctious couples, obviously enjoying a lot more Chimay than our table, grabbed our attention over Suva’s incessant awkward lawyer jokes. We engaged them in conversation in French. Actually, I did. Those French classes I taught in 2006 were going to pay off. This was my chance to wrestle control of the conversation away from the other guys at the table. It also allowed me to joke with the jovial Belgians, laugh, and then randomly point at Pepper, then continue laughing even harder. When he would ask what was so funny, I’d give him a completely inaccurate account of what was actually said.

Pepper Nose Sandwich

A Happy Happy Birthday in Chimay

One of the women was celebrating her birthday. We celebrated too. I can confidently say that she was definitely older than us, expect for possibly Scuba Steve. In the end, the birthday girl got kisses for her birthday from the younger American guys . . . on the cheek.

While the monks of L’Abbaye de Scourmont slept soundly, back at Espace Chimay, we concluded day #7 playing frisbee while a robotic lawn mower slid back and forth past our feet. Next up, excursions to Bruges and Brussels. Me, I was going to visit a pink elephant.

Previous Stop: Day #6 – Rochefort – Falmignoul – Dinant

Next Stop: Day #8 – Chimay – Couvin – Charleroi – Brussels

Can You See Jason?

Playing on the Trains

Smooth Road out of Dinant

Brief Visit to Givet, France

First Chimay in the Motherland

Can Anyone say Thomas the Train?

Head of the Peloton

Mariembourg, Belgium - Home to Life-size Thomas the Train Replicas

Étangs Gourmands - Cabarestaurant?

A Happy Happy Birthday in Chimay

Étangs Gourmands means Food Loving Pond

Great Spot for Family Gatherings - Brasserie des Fagnes

Chimay Espace

Pepper Nose Sandwich

Cherry Beer at Brasserie des Fagnes

En Route

Smooth Sailing from Dinant to Mariembourg